The Arsenal – Zach’s Scratch Built MK18 Mod 1

Zach here. Check the vid below to see a run down on my “go-to” gun, my MK18 Mod 1. Included below will be links to products that I added to this rifle over time to increase the reliability, performance and feel of my airsoft gun to get out of it exactly what I wanted.

For those curious, the batteries I use are 11.1v lithium polymer batteries of varying MAH ratings. The battery fits inside the buffer tube with the rear wiring and connector all in place. The base external build for this gun was a Cybergun Licensed King Arms Colt M4A1.

The Internal Components:

Lonex high speed gears
Tienly 40k motor
Lonex Extreme Toughness piston
King Arms stock or Lonex CNC hop up chamber
300mm or 363mm Magic box Miracle Barrel (Both S-hopped)
Silver plated wiring by Magic Box
Deans connectors
Lonex Precision gearbox shell
Magic Box Double O-ring cylinder head
Magic Box Double O-ring Piston head
Madbull M110 Spring (for 375-410FPS according to this build)
Lonex 3/5ths port cylinder for compression match on barrel
Lonex gold trigger contacts and shuttle
Lonex V2 Anti-Reversal Latch
Lonex Ball Bearing Spring Guide

The External Components:

Starting from the front and moving to the back, we have:
Surefire mock suppressor with 4-prong flash hider/compensator
Madbull 10.3inch, one-piece outer barrel
Madbull MK18 RisII 9.5inch Rail
LaserSpeed Dbal pointer unit with upgraded visible and IR lasers
Surefire style (Night Evolution/Lancer Tactical/Tac9) M600 light running a pressure switch
Magpul FDE AFG2
Magpul RSA2 (Rail Sling Attachment Point)
Violent Little Machine Shop “Admit One” Rail cover
Troy Industries imitation flip up Iront Sights
G&G T1 Optic (Replica)
Magpul CTR Stock for Milspec buffer
Viking Tactics (VTAC) low profile 2-point sling

Spray Painting:

It gets asked often, but unfortunately, there is not much to tell. Painting this gun was certainly a task and I took time and effort to do so. I used stencils that I purchased online in the Kryptek pattern and purchased multiple types of paint. Ideally, I wanted paint that would last and make a decent seal with the metals and polymers of the build.

I purchased Rustoleum and Krylon camo paints in various shades of green, tan, and finally a flat black. To achieve some of the deeper browns similar to a flat dark earth, I purchased a vehicle paint called Aervoe which takes 24 hours to set. I do not recommend using it as you can find a decent Dark Earth/deep brown made by Rustoleum if you look hard enough.

My base paint before applying the stencil was a light, earth tan in a yellowish sand color. This was to be the brightest color, so I applied it first before going over the rest of the gun with consecutively darker colors. After applying the stencil to the sealed sand color paint, I applied a light coating of both a forest green and a light green from the Krylon and Rustoleum camo lines of paint. After the greens had dried, I used a dental pick to remove the stencils in some places but not all. With most of the stencil gone, I applied the dark earth paint over top of everything in light strokes to create a thin layer of brown over the tans and greens. Finally, I removed the remaining pieces of stencil still on the painted gun. With every stencil piece removed, I held a can of flat black paint far enough away from the gun to apply a faint dusting of scattered black to darken to overall tone of the rifle and remove some of the shine.

If you like this set up, here are links to some of the parts included in this build:
G&G T1 Red Dot:…
Magpul AFG:…
M600 Light:…
Magpul USA CTR Stock:…
Tienly GT-40k Motor:…
Lonex High Speed Gears:…
Lonex Extreme Toughness Red Piston:…
Magpul RSA:…

Other attachments were outside purchase or from Violent Little Machine Shop, which… I love those dudes and what they put out. But, I am also a patch whore.

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